Life in Longyearbyen is a little different. A family of arctic foxes nest under my balcony. Reindeer graze between houses. Polar bears sometimes stroll through the center of town. It’s also a town in change. Neighborhoods are being destroyed because of avalanche danger. The coal-fueled power plant is old and needs replacing. Raw sewage is dumped in the fjord. Beneath a veneer of eco-tourism lies the foundations of Longyearbyen’s, and Svalbard’s, industrial past. Cable ways, containers, the smell of diesel. Longyearbyen is a study in contrasts as it struggles to find its way from being the company town it was to the family town Norway envisions.